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2 Weeks in Japan Itinerary: Tokyo, the Alps, Kyoto and the Inland Sea

Home » 2 Weeks in Japan Itinerary: Tokyo, the Alps, Kyoto and the Inland Sea

By OneLife · Updated September 2026 · 27 min read

This 2 weeks in Japan itinerary takes the classic line from Tokyo to Kyoto and bends it through the mountains. It runs from the neon of Shinjuku to a Hakone ryokan and into the old wooden towns of the Japanese Alps. Then it drops down to Kanazawa on the Sea of Japan coast. From there it swings back to Kyoto, then west to Hiroshima, Miyajima and a final night in Osaka.

Two weeks is the length where Japan stops feeling like a highlights reel. You have time for the famous places, and time for the parts most visitors never reach. The mountains of Hida, the thatched roofs of Shirakawa-go and the gardens of Kanazawa give the trip a middle chapter. That middle is what makes it feel like a journey rather than a list.

This route suits travellers who want depth without rushing. It works well for a first visit if you are happy to move around, and it rewards a second visit even more. Couples, friends and solo travellers all do well on it. Families can manage it too, with a slower pace in the Alps.

The shape is seven bases over thirteen nights. Tokyo gets three nights, Hakone one, Takayama two and Kanazawa two. Kyoto takes three, followed by one night on Miyajima and one in Osaka. You fly into Tokyo and out of Kansai. Times throughout are rough, and the gaps between them are where most of the good moments happen.

Start with Tokyo

The OneLife guide to Tokyo

How to spend 3 days in Tokyo

Tokyo’s most rewarding temples and shrines

Before You Start: Practical Planning Notes for Your 2 Weeks in Japan Itinerary

Getting to the starting point

Book an open-jaw ticket into Tokyo and out of Osaka’s Kansai International Airport. On a two-week loop, this saves you a long return journey on your final day. From Australia, most flights land at Haneda or Narita.

Haneda is the easier arrival, with trains and airport buses reaching Shinjuku in under an hour. From Narita, the Narita Express or Skyliner takes roughly 60 to 90 minutes, depending on where you stay.

Complete your arrival details on Visit Japan Web before you board. It gives you QR codes for immigration and customs. Australians can currently visit Japan visa-free for short tourist stays, but check the Smartraveller advice for Japan before you go.

How to get around

This is a train trip, and it should stay that way. A rental car only makes sense if you want to linger deep in the Alps. Even there, the limited express trains and highway buses are comfortable, scenic and easy to use.

Set up a Suica or ICOCA card in your phone wallet when you land. It works on trains, subways and buses in every city on this route, and in most convenience stores.

The key journeys are these. Odawara to Nagoya by shinkansen takes around an hour. From Nagoya, the Hida limited express climbs to Takayama in roughly two and a half hours. A reserved highway bus links Takayama, Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa. Since 2024, the Hokuriku shinkansen runs from Kanazawa to Tsuruga, where you change to the Thunderbird for Kyoto. The final legs to Hiroshima and Osaka are on the shinkansen.

Where to base yourself vs moving daily

Seven bases in two weeks is manageable because most stays are two or three nights. The two single nights are Hakone and Miyajima. Both are places that are best after dark, when the day visitors leave.

Plan three luggage forwards. Send your main case from Tokyo to Takayama, from Takayama to Kyoto, and from Kyoto to Osaka. You carry a small overnight bag to Hakone, through Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa, and out to Miyajima. The highway bus to Shirakawa-go has limited luggage space, so this matters more here than on shorter trips.

Start with Tokyo hotels on Booking.com, then book the smaller places early. Ryokan in Hakone, Takayama and Miyajima fill well ahead in spring and autumn. Kyoto’s accommodation tax also rose in March 2026. It is charged per person per night and increases with the room rate.

A note from the road

Do the maths before buying a JR Pass. A 7-day pass costs around 50,000 yen, and a 14-day pass around 80,000, with some agency prices rising in October 2026. On this route, Hakone travel and the Shirakawa-go buses are not JR, so single tickets usually come out cheaper. JR West and JR Central regional passes are worth checking for the Alps and Hokuriku section.

Day 1: Tokyo, Arriving Into the Towers

Morning

Arrival day is about getting in gently. Clear immigration, load your transit card and ride into the city. Drop your bags if your room is not ready, and go for a walk. Tokyo is kinder on foot than it looks from the train.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon in Shinjuku Gyoen if you need space. It is a large, quiet garden where the city seems to fall away behind the trees. If you have more energy, wander the department store food halls instead. The attention to detail there is a good first lesson in how Japan works.

Evening

Ride up the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for the free observation decks at dusk. The city runs to the horizon in every direction. On clear evenings, Fuji shows as a dark shape against the sunset.

Eat in Omoide Yokocho, the smoky lane of yakitori counters beside Shinjuku Station. Most seat only a few people. Take any free stool and order what your neighbour is eating.

Where to stay tonight: Shinjuku for all three Tokyo nights. It gives you the direct Romancecar to Hakone and easy trains everywhere else. See Shinjuku hotels on Booking.com.

Day 2: Tokyo, Temple Smoke and East Side Craft

Morning

Go to Senso-ji before 7am. The grounds are open, the incense hangs low, and people stop to pray on their way to work. By ten it will be crowded. The Senso-ji temple guide covers the rituals and the quieter corners of the grounds.

Walk Nakamise-dori as the first shutters roll up. The street is almost empty, and you see the shopkeepers setting up for the day.

Afternoon

Walk south along the river to Kuramae. Once a warehouse district, it is now full of small workshops, leather makers, stationers and quiet coffee bars. It is a good place to find something handmade to bring home.

From there, take the train to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa. Its landscape garden circles a large pond with stepping stones across the water. The surrounding streets are known for their specialty coffee roasters.

Evening

Watch Tokyo Skytree light up from the Sumida riverbank. If you want to go up, the Skytree guide covers tickets and the best time of day.

Then walk back through Asakusa. After dark, the temple is lit and almost empty. For guided food walks or evening tours, browse Tokyo experiences on Viator.

Where to stay tonight: Same Shinjuku base.

Day 3: Tokyo, Forest, Canal and City Lights

Morning

Walk into Meiji Jingu early. The shrine sits in a dense forest in the middle of the city, and the traffic noise disappears within a few minutes. The Meiji Shrine guide explains what you are looking at as you walk the gravel paths.

Afternoon

Drift through the backstreets of Harajuku, then down the tree-lined avenue of Omotesando. Continue to Nakameguro, where a narrow canal is lined with cherry trees, small galleries and good coffee. It is one of Tokyo’s gentlest neighbourhoods.

Walk on to Daikanyama for its low-rise design stores and the much-loved Tsutaya bookshop. Then continue into Shibuya. The Shibuya travel guide lists the viewpoints and side streets worth knowing.

Evening

Book Shibuya Sky for sunset and watch the lights come on across the whole city. Then go down and walk the crossing.

Tonight is also admin night. Forward your main luggage to your Takayama hotel, and pack a small bag for Hakone. Finish with a nightcap in one of the tiny bars of Golden Gai.

Where to stay tonight: Same Shinjuku base. Tomorrow’s Romancecar leaves from here.

Day 4: Hakone, the Mountain Loop and a Ryokan Night

Morning

The Odakyu Romancecar reaches Hakone-Yumoto from Shinjuku in about 85 minutes. Ask for the front observation seats. The suburbs thin out, and the hills rise green around the train.

Afternoon

Take the Hakone Tozan Railway up the mountain. It climbs in switchbacks, reversing as it goes. Stop at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, where huge sculptures sit across lawns beneath the peaks.

Continue by cable car to Sounzan, then take the ropeway over Owakudani. Sulphur steam rises from bare rock below. Eggs boiled in the vents turn black, and locals say each one adds seven years to your life.

Drop down to Lake Ashi and cross by boat to Moto-Hakone. Walk to the red torii of Hakone Shrine at the water’s edge. The ropeway occasionally pauses for inspections or volcanic activity, so check the operator’s notices that morning.

Evening

Check into your ryokan and change into a yukata. Soak before dinner, then settle in for kaiseki, a slow run of small seasonal courses. Go back to the bath late, when the steam rises into the dark and the building is quiet.

Many shared onsen still restrict tattoos. If that affects you, book a room with its own private bath.

Where to stay tonight: A ryokan in Gora, Miyanoshita or Hakone-Yumoto. Browse Hakone ryokan on Booking.com.

Day 5: Into the Alps, Hakone to Takayama

Morning

Take a last soak and a slow ryokan breakfast. Then head down to Odawara and take the shinkansen west to Nagoya. Only some Hikari and Kodama trains stop at Odawara, so check the timetable the evening before.

Afternoon

At Nagoya, change to the Hida limited express. This is one of the most beautiful train rides in Japan. The line follows the Hida River up through gorges, forests and small villages. Sit on the right side for the best of the river.

Your forwarded case should be waiting in Takayama. Drop your bag and walk into Sanmachi Suji, the old merchant quarter. Dark wooden houses line narrow streets, and cedar balls hang above the doors of the sake breweries.

Evening

Takayama goes quiet early. That is part of its charm. Eat Hida beef, one of Japan’s great wagyu, then walk the empty old town under the street lamps. The river sounds louder at night.

Where to stay tonight: Near Takayama Station or the old town for both nights. A small ryokan with an onsen bath is worth it after a long travel day. See Takayama stays on Booking.com.

Day 6: Takayama, Morning Markets and the Northern Alps

Morning

Go early to the Miyagawa morning market along the river. Farmers sell pickles, miso, fresh vegetables and small handmade crafts. The smaller Jinya-mae market sits in front of the old government house nearby.

Then take the bus up into Okuhida to the Shinhotaka Ropeway, about 90 minutes away. Its double-decker gondola climbs to over 2,000 metres. On a clear day, the jagged peaks of the Northern Alps stand right in front of you, often with snow.

Afternoon

Return to Takayama and visit Takayama Jinya, the only surviving government house of its kind from the Edo period. Its tatami rooms and quiet gardens feel almost untouched.

If you prefer to stay in town, walk to Hida Folk Village instead. It is an open-air museum of old thatched farmhouses moved from across the region, set around a pond.

Evening

Taste sake at one of the old breweries in Sanmachi, then have dinner in a small local restaurant. Arrange to forward your case to Kyoto tonight. You will carry a light bag through the next two stops.

Where to stay tonight: Same Takayama base.


Day 7: Shirakawa-go and the Road to Kanazawa

Morning

Take the reserved highway bus from Takayama to Shirakawa-go, about 50 minutes away. This small valley village is famous for its gassho-zukuri farmhouses. Their steep thatched roofs are shaped like hands pressed together in prayer, built to shed heavy mountain snow.

Walk up to the Shiroyama viewpoint first. From there, the whole village sits below you between rice fields and forest. Then go down and step inside the Wada House, the largest farmhouse open to visitors. The upper floors show how silkworms were once raised under the roof.

Afternoon

Take the afternoon bus on to Kanazawa, about 75 minutes. Book both bus legs in advance, as they fill up. Coin lockers at the Shirakawa-go bus stop can hold a small bag while you explore.

Evening

Walk into Higashi Chaya as the light fades. It is Kanazawa’s old teahouse district, a set of lanes lined with wooden lattice fronts. It feels like Gion with half the crowds. Several shops here work with gold leaf, a Kanazawa craft for centuries.

Where to stay tonight: Near Kanazawa Station for easy onward travel, or around Korinbo and Katamachi for evenings. Browse Kanazawa hotels on Booking.com.


Day 8: Kanazawa, Gardens, Samurai Lanes and a Swimming Pool

Morning

Go to Kenroku-en when it opens. It is one of the three great gardens of Japan, and the early hours are its best. Mist sits over the ponds, and gardeners are already at work on the pines.

Cross into Kanazawa Castle Park next door. Then walk to Omicho Market for an early lunch. The kaisendon here, rice topped with fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan, is excellent.

Afternoon

Visit the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. It is a round glass building where you can wander in and out of free spaces. Its best-known work is a swimming pool you can stand underneath. Timed tickets are needed for the pool, so book ahead or arrive early.

Walk to the D.T. Suzuki Museum afterwards. It is a small, quiet building around a shallow water garden. It is one of the calmest places on this whole route.

Evening

Wander Nagamachi, the old samurai district, as the earthen walls catch the late light. Then cross the river to Kazuemachi, a lane of teahouses along the Asano River. Dinner in Kanazawa means seafood, and nobody leaves disappointed.

Where to stay tonight: Same Kanazawa base.

Day 9: Kanazawa to Kyoto, the Temples of Higashiyama

Morning

Take the Hokuriku shinkansen to Tsuruga, then the Thunderbird limited express into Kyoto. The whole journey takes a little over two hours. Your forwarded luggage should already be waiting at your Kyoto hotel.

Afternoon

Start at Sanjusangen-do. Inside a hall about 120 metres long stand 1,001 gilded statues of Kannon, row after row. It is one of the most quietly powerful rooms in Kyoto.

Walk up into Higashiyama. Pass the Yasaka pagoda, then climb Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, the stone lanes lined with old shopfronts. Visit Kodai-ji for its bamboo grove and dry gardens, which see far fewer people than Arashiyama.

Evening

Walk through Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine into Gion as the lanterns come on. Shirakawa, with its willows and canal, is one of the most beautiful streets in the city at night.

Gion is a working neighbourhood. Some lanes are closed to visitors, and geiko and maiko should never be photographed without permission. Watch quietly and give them space.

Where to stay tonight: Central Kyoto around Kawaramachi, Gion or Karasuma for all three nights. See Kyoto stays on Booking.com.

Day 10: Kyoto, Arashiyama and the Moss of Sagano

Morning

Reach the Arashiyama bamboo grove before 8am. The stalks creak in the breeze, and the light is soft and green. After nine, it is shoulder to shoulder.

Walk north into Sagano. Gio-ji is a tiny temple with a garden carpeted in moss and maples, and it is one of the most peaceful places in Kyoto. Continue to Okochi Sanso for its tea garden and view. For guided walks or cycling tours of the area, browse Kyoto tours on Viator.

Afternoon

Head to Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. It is busy and the viewing path is fixed, yet its reflection in the pond is worth seeing once.

Walk 20 minutes to Ryoan-ji and sit with its rock garden. It holds 15 stones, but from any point on the veranda you can see only 14. The longer you sit, the more it asks of you.

Evening

Walk up the Philosopher’s Path in the late afternoon from Ginkaku-ji, if you still have legs. Otherwise, go straight to dinner in Pontocho, the lantern-lit lane along the Kamo River.

Where to stay tonight: Same Kyoto base.

Day 11: Fushimi Inari at Dawn, Then Nara

Morning

Go to Fushimi Inari Taisha at first light. The shrine never closes. The long tunnels of vermilion torii are quiet at dawn, and your footsteps are the loudest thing on the mountain.

On the way back, stop at Tofuku-ji. Its wooden Tsutenkyo bridge crosses a valley of maples, and its modern checkerboard moss garden is one of Kyoto’s surprises.

Afternoon

Take the train to Nara, about 40 to 45 minutes. Nara was the capital before Kyoto, and it feels broader and older.

More than a thousand deer roam the park. Walk to Todai-ji, where a bronze Buddha about 15 metres tall sits inside a vast wooden hall. Then follow the forest paths to Kasuga Taisha, lined with thousands of moss-covered lanterns. Isuien, a small garden that borrows the hills beyond it, is a quiet stop between the two.

Evening

Climb to the balcony of Nigatsu-do, part of the Todai-ji complex, before sunset. It is free, open and faces west across the rooftops of Nara. It is one of the best sunsets on the whole trip.

Return to Kyoto. Forward your case to Osaka and pack a small bag for Miyajima.

Where to stay tonight: Same Kyoto base.

Day 12: Hiroshima and a Night on Miyajima

Morning

Take the shinkansen from Kyoto to Hiroshima, well under two hours on the fastest trains. A tram from the station reaches the Peace Memorial Park in about 20 minutes.

Afternoon

Walk past the Atomic Bomb Dome, preserved as it stood after 1945. Then cross the park to the Peace Memorial Museum. The exhibits are personal and specific, and they are hard to look at. Give it at least two hours, and leave some quiet time afterwards.

Hiroshima today is a warm, green and easygoing city. That contrast with its history is part of what makes the visit matter.

Late in the afternoon, take the JR Sanyo line to Miyajimaguchi and the ferry across to Miyajima. The crossing takes about ten minutes. A small visitor tax is added to the fare.

Evening

Once the day visitors leave, the island changes. Deer settle on the sand, and the great torii of Itsukushima Shrine is lit against the dark water. Check the tide tables. At high tide the gate seems to float, and at low tide you can walk out to it.

Where to stay tonight: A ryokan on Miyajima itself. Rooms are limited, so book early. See Miyajima stays on Booking.com.


Day 13: Mount Misen and a Night in Osaka

Morning

Walk the shore early, while the island is still quiet. Then ride the Miyajima Ropeway towards Mount Misen and hike the last stretch to the summit. The islands of the Seto Inland Sea spread out below.

Walk down via Daisho-in, a temple crowded with small stone statues, prayer wheels and lanterns. It is one of the most atmospheric temples in western Japan.

Afternoon

Ferry back to the mainland, return to Hiroshima Station and take the shinkansen to Shin-Osaka, about 90 minutes. Your forwarded case should be waiting at your hotel.

Evening

Osaka is the loudest night on the route, and after Miyajima it feels like a release. Walk Dotonbori as the neon reflects off the canal. Then slip into Ura-Namba, the backstreets behind the station, where tiny standing bars and izakaya fill every doorway.

For a quiet minute, find Hozenji Yokocho. The small temple here holds a statue so thick with moss that it looks soft and green. People splash water over it and make a wish.

Where to stay tonight: Namba, close to the food streets and the direct train to Kansai Airport. Browse Namba hotels on Booking.com.

Day 14: Osaka and the Final Morning

Morning

Walk to Kuromon Market as it opens for a grazing breakfast of scallops, fruit and grilled seafood. Or go further north to Osaka Castle and walk the moats while the park is quiet.

Departure notes

From Namba, the Nankai Rapi:t reaches Kansai International in under 40 minutes. Allow generous time. Japan’s departure tax rose to 3,000 yen in July 2026, though it is usually included in your airfare.

If your flight leaves in the evening, spend the afternoon in Shinsekai. It is a retro neighbourhood of old neon and kushikatsu counters around the Tsutenkaku tower.

The final morning

After two weeks, the temptation is to fit in one last sight. Resist it. Take a slow coffee, walk by the canal and let the trip settle. Some journeys only fully arrive once you are on the plane home.

Where to Eat Along the Route

In Tokyo, Omoide Yokocho is the classic first-night yakitori. In Kuramae and Kiyosumi-Shirakawa, the small coffee roasters are worth planning a morning around. Nakameguro has good casual restaurants along the canal.

In Hakone, the ryokan kaiseki is the meal of the stop. For lunch near Gora, Tamura Ginkatsu-tei serves a tofu katsu simmered in a clay pot.

In Takayama, eat Hida beef in whatever form you can. The street stalls in Sanmachi sell Hida beef nigiri seared with a torch. Takayama ramen, a light soy broth with thin curly noodles, is the local comfort food. Several old breweries offer sake tastings.

In Kanazawa, Omicho Market is the place for kaisendon at lunch. Kanazawa curry, thick and dark and served on a steel plate, is a local institution. In Higashi Chaya, try a soft serve wrapped in a sheet of gold leaf. It is theatrical, but it is also very Kanazawa.

In Kyoto, Arashiyama is known for yudofu, simmered tofu served in a clay pot. Nishiki Market is best for grazing, and Pontocho for a slow riverside dinner. In Nara, Kamameshi Shizuka serves rice cooked in an iron pot with seasonal toppings.

In Hiroshima, eat okonomiyaki layered on the griddle with noodles and cabbage. Okonomimura is a building with several floors of small counters devoted to it. On Miyajima, try grilled oysters from the street stalls and a warm momiji manju. Ueno near Miyajimaguchi has served anagomeshi, grilled conger eel on rice, since the early 1900s.

In Osaka, eat takoyaki fresh from the griddle and kushikatsu at Daruma. The dipping sauce is shared, so dip each skewer only once.

Practical Tips for This Itinerary

Carry cash as well as cards. Smaller restaurants, mountain ryokan, shrines and rural buses still prefer yen. 7-Eleven ATMs take most foreign cards and are found almost everywhere.

Reserve the Shirakawa-go buses as soon as your dates are fixed. The routes from Takayama and to Kanazawa are popular and can sell out in busy seasons. Winter light-up evenings in Shirakawa-go also require advance booking.

Luggage forwarding is what makes a two-week route feel easy. Three sends, from Tokyo, Takayama and Kyoto, keep you travelling light where it matters. Ask your hotel desk the evening before.

Trains are quiet spaces. Calls are avoided, and conversations are kept low. In Kyoto, Nara and Takayama, eating while walking is frowned on in many areas.

Travel insurance is essential on a trip this long, especially with mountain transport and hot springs involved. World Nomads offers cover you can buy or extend while you are already travelling.

Stay connected for the transfers. Google Maps handles train platforms, bus stops and connections in real time. An eSIM from Airlo can be set up before you fly, so you land with data.

Pack for two climates. The Alps are much cooler than Tokyo or Osaka, and Shinhotaka can be cold even in summer. A packable down jacket rolls into a daypack. Broken-in shoes that slip off easily, packing cubes for the overnight bag and a power bank will all earn their place.

Spring and autumn are the most beautiful and busiest seasons for this route. Winter turns the Alps and Shirakawa-go into snow country, though some mountain transport runs reduced hours. The Japan National Tourism Organization is a reliable source for seasons and events.

How to Adjust This 2 Weeks in Japan Itinerary

Shorter version (10 days)

Remove the Alps section. Go from Hakone straight to Kyoto, skipping Takayama, Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa. That leaves Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima, Miyajima and Osaka, which is still a rich and balanced trip.

With only a week, keep Tokyo, Hakone and Kyoto. Fly home from Kansai after Kyoto, and fit Nara in on the last morning if your flight allows.

Extended version (3 weeks or more)

Add Nikko or Kamakura as a day trip from Tokyo. Both give you forest temples and a slower rhythm close to the city.

In winter, the Hokuriku shinkansen opens up a different middle section. Nozawa Onsen sits a short bus ride from Iiyama Station, between Tokyo and Kanazawa. The Nozawa Onsen travel guide explains the village, its free public baths and how to get there. The Nozawa ski guide covers the mountain, and there is a separate guide on where to stay in the village.

In the west, add Naoshima for its art museums on a quiet island, or a temple stay on Mount Koya. Continuing from Hiroshima to Fukuoka also works well. With that much rail, a JR Pass may finally pay for itself.

More from the Japan collection

Tokyo Tower vs Skytree, which to choose

The Nozawa Onsen fire festival

Cafes worth finding in Nozawa Onsen

Frequently Asked Questions

Is 2 weeks enough time in Japan?

Two weeks is an ideal length for a first or second trip. It covers Tokyo, Hakone, the Alps, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima and Osaka at a comfortable pace. You will still leave with a list for next time, which is how it should be.

Is the JR Pass worth it for 2 weeks in Japan?

For this 2 weeks in Japan itinerary, usually not. Hakone travel and the Shirakawa-go buses are not covered by JR, and single tickets for the longer legs generally cost less than a 14-day pass. Regional passes for the Alps and Hokuriku area can be better value, so compare before buying.

Can I see Shirakawa-go as a day trip?

Yes. On this route it sits between Takayama and Kanazawa, so you visit on the way through. Some travellers stay the night in a farmhouse inn in the village, which is a special experience if you can book one.

What is the best order for this route?

Fly into Tokyo, move west through Hakone and the Alps, then down to Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka. Flying out of Kansai avoids backtracking. It also means the journey moves from the busiest city into slower, older places.

How much walking is involved?

A lot. Expect 15,000 to 25,000 steps on most days. Good shoes matter more than anything else you pack.

When is the best time for a 2 week trip to Japan?

Late March to early April and October to November bring the best scenery, along with the biggest crowds. Winter is beautiful in the Alps and quieter elsewhere. Summer is hot and humid in the cities but cooler in the mountains.

Do I need to book everything in advance?

No. Book ryokan, the Shirakawa-go buses, Shibuya Sky at sunset and Miyajima accommodation. Most other things can be decided on the day.


Final Thoughts

This 2 weeks in Japan itinerary is built around contrast. Tokyo’s towers give way to the steam of Hakone. Wooden Alpine towns lead to the gardens of Kanazawa. Then come the temples of Kyoto, the weight of Hiroshima and the noise of Osaka.

Two weeks is enough to see a great deal. The real gift is having enough time to slow down in between. Take the long train through the Hida gorge. Sit a little longer in the rock garden. Stay the night on the island.

Those are the parts that stay with you. The rest is simply how you get there.

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